As we approached Milan we realized that we were not going to make our connection. Really there was no way that it was possible because the train from Lugano to Milan was only scheduled for an hour and in general it takes a good thirty minutes more then that. It wasn’t to big of an issue because we were unable to get all of our tickets through to Vernazza in Lugano so it gave us enough time to buy the last leg of our trip from Genova to Vernazza. Which I had been getting nervous about and was continually asking Tim his opinion on whether or not ten minutes between trains was going to be enough to purchase the tickets, so it worked out well in the long run. While waiting in line for these tickets, I got a crash course on lines in Italy. There is no such thing as a line and unless you are forceful you will be standing there for a really long time. Which would have happened to me because a couple of men walked alongside of me throughout the entire length of the line.
As we boarded the train to Genova we recognized that we were lacking assigned seats, as was everyone else that missed the connecting train with us. After much searching of one car, we settled comfortably between cars, with Tim half in the Water Closet and half out. At one point I was chest to chest with another women hoping that she continued on her way. It was a rather tight squeeze for a few stops before people departed and we were able to grab some “jump seats” in the aisle ways outside the main cabins. 
By 9:40 we had made it to Vernazza, only an hour after schedule. As we descended the steps of the station we came upon a walk way lined with olive trees. We walked down the center of these trees looking at orange and yellow buildings that continue to have an old world charm to them.
The town has not been modernized from its days as a fishing village and it was quite apparent and refreshing. We found the big green door of Marconi 13 and went in. Inside Giacomo was waiting to walk us through the apartment, the procedures, and check out. A nice thing about Cinque Terre is that there are many of these apartments for rent on weekends. It is a pleasant option away from the typical hotel or bed and breakfast you find throughout Europe. This apartment was quaint with the bare necessities, which was all we needed.
Saturday morning our plan was to walk the five towns, starting with Vernazza heading to Riomaggiore, a little less than 9 km. The towns were beautiful, each providing a different view and feel then the previous. Vernazza to me is still the most beautiful and charming. It could be because I had chosen to stay there for the weekend or because it truly was.
First stop was Corneglia, the next town over and the third largest. It is built out on a point. It took us about an hour and a half to make it there, stopping along the way for me to take many pictures of Vernazza, as we left it behind and the sights along the way. From Corneglia we went to Manarola where I saw the ultimate boat dock. I immediately thought of my dad and mom maneuvering our boat into various bodies of water throughout my childhood. I believe that my dad would be able to conquer this one.
From Manarola we walked the via dell’Amore to Riomaggiore the last town at the farthest point. We had bypassed breakfast earlier that morning with the intention of eating along the way. As usual, with us, we kept pushing on, saying at the next village, or just one more and we will find something there. Well, finally at Riomaggiore we really couldn’t say that anymore and we had to eat. We stopped at a restaurant called La Lampara and had a plate of pasta each. Tim was truly on vacation and ordered himself a beer, which I gladly shared with him, even though I had said I only wanted a sip.
From Riomaggiore we jumped the train to Monterossa, recognizing that we did not have enough sunlight to tackle a hike into the hills overlooking Riomaggiore, which originally had been part of the plan. On the train, we quickly found out that we had not validated our ticket. Unfortunately for the first time, this was an issue. In true Italian fashion, we were scolded by the conductor about how on this train it is not all right and there was a fifty euro fine on a 1.50 trip. Tim did a marvelous job with the man convincing him that we did not know. He ripped up our tickets and shaking his head walked away. Lucky for us, we were the next stop.
In Monterosso we had a destination that we had to hit. We didn’t really have definite directions so it was a wondering game. As we were wondering, walking along the beach, Tim stopped to touch the water. He was trying to convince me that it was warm enough to take a swim. Yeah, right! As we entered the old town we took a turn down one of the side alleyways that looked rather active and found ourselves right in front of the Pasticceria. 
Kara Fontes, another teacher here that works both at the high school and elementary school level had lead an impro trip to Cinque Terre earlier in the year. At that time she went to Pasticceria Laura for the Monterossina a pie that on a good day tastes just like cookie dough. In this case, it wasn’t as good as she described but Tim says that his last bite, the very tip of the piece was fantastic and the best. We didn’t have the heart to tell Kara when we got back however, that it wasn’t all that she had made it out to be. The latte machiatto on the other hand really hit the spot because as the sun was setting, the warmth of the coffee was welcomed.After our break for coffee and desert we wondered further into the town of Monterosso. As we were walking down the streets we came to an Enoteca, where wine and liquors are sold. Cinque Terre is known for their dry white wine and desert wines. I was contemplating picking up a bottle or two to bring back home to share with my family. I never did purchase those bottles, however at the store we were able to try cream limoncello and cream melon. It was fantastic. After, Tim had 4 shots and I sipped at two we were ready to hike again. I think he was feeling rather warm and fuzzy with a full belly of pasta, monterossina pie and just a couple after lunch shots.
As the temperature dropped and we were enjoying the sights we began to realize that it was time to start the last leg of our trip back to Vernazza. The estimated travel time was between an hour and a half and two hours. We are rather quick walkers but we only had about an hour of light left. As we climbed the stairs into the mountains we continually looked behind us watching the sun set and change the colors of the sky. It was breathtaking. We found ourselves stopping many times to just enjoy the view because that was one of the things that I had said I really wanted to do this trip. As the sky darkened the lights of Monterosso turned out, illuminating the town along the beach.
We eventually turned the corner, losing the sun behind the mountain and looking out over the Mediterranean Sea. The path became very narrow and we had to really focus on where we were walking and what we were doing. Again, we went around another bend, bringing the lights of Vernazza into sight. It was absolutely beautiful. I tried to capture it on my camera but had no luck. Both Tim and I purchased postcards on Sunday to remind us of what it looked like as we approached it that evening.
Sunday was another wonderful day, warmer then Saturday with clear blue skies and a slight breeze off the water. We had check out at ten so we woke up leisurely and ventured across the piazza to a restaurant for breakfast and a cup of coffee. Then we met Giacomo to pay and say thank you. He kindly reminded us that we must pick up our bags at the end of the afternoon and not sleep there that night because he was heading back to his winter home in Levanto. I also received the typical two kisses and a hug as he was departing. If I were to visit again, I would stay in the cozy room once more.
With our bags packed and under the window we prepared for a hike into the hills behind the towns. Again, it started with stairs. However, on this trip I realized that I don’t mind stairs all that much if they are normal and not the Swiss stairs. Swiss stairs are just a little two wide for one step up, making you always step with the same leg.
This hike into the mountains surrounding Cinque Terre was much different then the ones surrounding us in Switzerland. As we climbed we walked through olive trees with netting rolled up and tied under the trees. Then almost immediately after a turn we would be walking through vineyards that had been harvested earlier in November of their grapes to make the wine of Cinque Terre. Now the vines were covered in yellow and orange leaves with remnants of grapes still hanging from some of the vines, left behind to fall to the ground. 
We wandered for almost two hours through these vineyards coming across vicious dogs that scared me half to death and I wouldn’t walk past it until the owner came through the vines and held him back. I swear if he had slipped forward slightly he would have jumped right over the low fence that was a little below him along the walk. We also walked past many sanctuaries, where we stopped and had Clementines and peanut M&M’s, Tim’s treat of choice.
Then finally we came to a split, red path 7 or 7A. 7 continued up the mountain with really no destination but continuing our hike, 7A went towards Cornegila where we would catch the train back to Vernazza to call it a day and head back to Lugano. Tim wanted to continue up so we did and eventually I became nervous and made him turn around because I feared that we were going to miss the last train from Milan to Lugano because we had gotten lost so many times throughout our hike up I did not believe that our hike down was going to be a direct one and would take longer then both of us planned. So we turned and instead of going to Corneglia we walked back to the blue path and Vernazza. However, this path was extremely difficult with a lot of loose rock and steep portions that we had to ease our way down.
As we got to the bottom we came into a path of cactus. I thought they were so cool so we stopped for a photo shoot. I pretended to sit on one and get caught up in the little prickers. Well, it doesn’t pay to fool around because as I was leaving the path my arm did get caught and it wasn’t the most pleasant feeling. 
Soon after we found our way back to Vernazza and had plenty of time to spare so we went up to Castle Doria for one last look at the Mediterranean Sea and the 4 other towns of Cinque Terre. It was absolutely gorgeous. The weather was perfect and hiking was fantastic and it was another great weekend.
No comments:
Post a Comment