Bike Portugal

Pictures to come...just trying to catch up!

April 4 - April 12, 2009

Day 1 ~ Saturday, April 4
Lisbon

Dad and I met mid afternoon at the Lisbon airport on our way to the Tivoli Lisboa hotel. He had already been upgraded to 1st class for his long flight and the good news continued as we got upgraded to a suite because the hotel was completely overbooked and the room we were suppose to have had not been checked out of yet.

Once we got settled in we set off by foot down Avenida Liberdade, a tree lined street sparkled with all the high end stores along the way. We were heading for Rossio, Lisbon´s main square.

Then we continued on to the water down a pedestrian only walkway,

through a few archways, dodging one or two trams as we crossed the road.

Upon recommendation from one of my student´s families who happened to be on my flight we strolled up a steep cobblestone road to Se´Cathedral. The Cathedral was in the process of getting ready for Palm Sunday, with huge Palm fronds adorning all the stone pillars.

The churches here are are drastically different from those in Italy. They are very dark, cold and simple. They don't have all the intricate paintings and saints everywhere, with the dominate color being stone.

The next stop on our trek was Miradouro Santa Luzia. Outside the church there was a terraced garden with people lounging, listening to music and enjoying the views.

The exterior of the church had remnants of tiles that use to depict the siege of the castle. These tiles are called azulejos.

Finally we reached our main destination, Castelo Sao Jorge. This castle was constructed by the Moors at the highest point in Lisbon. It provided many great views along the walls. There were a couple of places that were slightly scary because there were no guard rails or very small ones.

After seeing the castle we headed back to the hotel to get cleaned up and take a little snooze before dinner. The same family had also recommended a place for dinner. So we made reservations at Pap´Acorda.

This restaurant was located on a steep pedestrian walkway that almost looked like an alley and at points was slightly questionable considering the atmosphere and stores that lined the streets. However, upon entering the restaurant it was a completely different feel, as I suspected considering the recommendation. It was great and Dad and I both had our first of many fish dinners. Dad was braver then I having Cod with Acorda, a typical bread and garlic mash, while I stuck with the Tuna Portuguese style, which consisted of garlic, whole peppers, in olive oil. They were both fantastic meals. I have a feeling we are going to eat well on this trip.

Day Two ~ Sunday April 5
Transfer from Lisbon to Obidos

This morning Dad and I woke up and got ready to start our adventure. We met Pedro in the lobby and found out that we were two of four people on the trip. There were two women from Norway, Brita and Hana, who actually didn't know each other and had booked separately.

We drove from Lisbon to Obidos, a small medieval town still surrounded by the fortress walls. All of the houses inside are painted white with either blue or yellow outlining. Our hotel was one of these little homes,

with an outdoor patio at it's center

where all of our bikes were stored.

After a little debriefing about how the trip was going to work we headed out to find a place for lunch. As soon as we left our hotel our noses were filled with the scent of lavender. Today was Palm Sunday and they had scattered the streets with branches of lavender and decorated all the statues and entrance ways with palms.

A little ways down the path, Pedro stopped to introduce us to his favorite liquor, Ginja. It is a cherry drink served in a chocolate cup. Absolutely fantastic and tasty as well. Except of course Dad successfully spilled on his white shirt.

After walking for quite some time up to the edge of the castle wall and back down again we found a cute little outdoor cafe for lunch. I broke from tradition and had an omelet instead of fish. But dad held true and had this contraption of Cod, garlic, mayonnaise, and butter. I swear he has no taste buds.

Next stop was wandering the castle walls with Brita and Hana. Pedro thought it was about a kilometer around and once we got to the top we realized it was probably true. The whole town looks much bigger from the street. There were great views of the interior

and countryside from the wall.

The only scary part was that there was no railing and only about a two foot pathway. That would never happen in the states.

Later that afternoon we were able to watch a procession into evening mass. It was interesting because there were so many scouts in the area participating in the mass.

Since we didn't have much more to do around town, Pedro suggested trying out our bikes. So we took them for a spin outside the castle walls. The only downfall was the steep climb on the way back up. Dad and I made it, so hopefully that is a good sign for the rest of the trip.

Working so hard for that little spin meant that we definitely needed to cool down with a beer. We found tables outside the castle walls with all the locals who had just gotten out of church. Everyone having beers and eating peanuts was a great way to end a ride as well as kick off the first day of our bike trip.

Day Three ~ Monday, April 6
Obidos to Nazare 45 km

The first day of riding and I have to admit I was a little nervous. We were schedule to ride 45 km/27 miles from Obidos to Nazare. I have never ridden more than 30 minutes on a bike in a gym or an hour outside leisurely with my dad. I was starting to have second thoughts about this whole bike trip thing.

The six of us met up for breakfast, got a debriefing about the ride, packed our bags and left the castle walls.

We started with a downhill, which I can definitely do. We stopped not too far from the castle to take pictures from the outside. I have to say it is quite impressive to think that the castle was built so long ago on such a high peak. The engineering must have been amazing.

We stopped a couple of more times. The first being at S. Martinho Do Porto (Shell Beach) known for its wind surfing. I was definitely ready for a break. We had only ridden for 10 km but I wasn't use to it and

The second for a snack at the bottom of a long climb and descent. That was when we were 2/3 of the way. The last third started with a 160 km climb over a period of 7 km. I didn't think that was bad when they said it but I was happy when we reached the top, right when the rain started. But it was all downhill from there into the coastal town of Nazare. And I have to admit my bottom was ready to get off of that seat. I am very glad I made the purchase of bike shorts because this trip would not be possible without them.

We dropped off our bikes, showered, met up again for lunch and then too the ascensore, aka the funiculare, to the vista high above the beach.

Here there was a beautiful church, Chapel of Sao Giao, in the square.

We also marveled at alder women wearing the traditional dress of 7 skirts and high argyle knee socks. Now that wouldn't be that bad if the seven skirts were all the same color, pattern, or tone. However, these were not. They were all different colors, crazy patterns and then the socks would be completely off the wall. Very interesting fashion choice indeed.

Once we saw all the sights we took the ascensore back down to the beach where Dad and I separated from the rest of the group to buy postcards and stamps. We needed to stop by the hotel for a bit before heading out to sit on the beach with a beer to write our letters. However, we never made it because we decided to take a 15 minute nap that turned into an hour. Leaving us little time to walk the beach before meeting up with the group for dinner.

Tonight I was extremely brave, while Dad stuck with his Cod. That is shredded cod with hashbrowns and egg. I had Octopus and Rice which as very similar to a stew with tomato sauce just filled to the brim with big pieces of octopus and a ton of other seafood.

Day Four ~ Tuesday, April 7
Nazare to Praia De Vieira 50 km

Today we took off from the beach town of Nazare heading for Praia De Vieira only a short 50 km or 31 miles away. Dad and I were a little nervous when we were getting ready because all we could see were grey skies and at times all out rain storms. As we were loading up our van to drive to the vista to start, the sky opened up and it started to sprinkle but it passed by quickly. At the vista we took our beginning picture.

This one is special because we were able to get one of the peanut ladies wearing her 7 skirts and argyle socks to pose with us. However, not without her mentioning we should buy something before heading out.

Today's ride was relatively easy and uneventful. We rode through a national forest filled with pine trees planted log ago for the production of ships. The whole ride was filled with the smell of sap and pine. I found it fantastic while Nuno wasn't a huge fan.

At one of the 1st towns we passed through along the coast we picked up a four legged friend who ran next to us a good 10 km till we stopped for lunch, gave him some water and a burger. Then we were on our way again.

This time for 15 km, 12 of which were down a perfectly straight road, with little change in altitude or scenery. Not the most intriguing way to finish a day but pleasant on the legs.

When we reached the town of Vieira there was little to do but grab some beers, stroll along the beach, read a couple of chapters, and of course take a midafternoon nap before meeting up for dinner.

Tonight was a little different because we all piled into the van to head one town back called S. Pedro de Muel. We went to a little restaurant overlooking the ocean. We never saw a menu and were just asked meat or fish. All of us said fish so the waiter brought you a huge platter of various types caught that day. Mind you they weren't cooked yet. We decided on sea bass and they prepared the whole fish for the 5 of us to share accompanied by cabbage, potatoes and acorda (a traditional Portuguese dish made up of mashed bread, olive oil, garlic, cilantro and who knows what else.) After dinner was followed by a great desserts, a cherry liquor, and lemon sorbet. Needless to say I was stuffed and should sleep well.

Day 5 ~ Wednesday, April 8
Praia de Vieira to Batalha 45 km

Today it got harder. At least that is what Nuno kept telling us. We started out with an uneventful 30 km taking us to Leira the town where Nuno is from. We stopped at a nice cafe for lunch and actually got to meet his mom. Before leaving Pedro behind to watch the bikes as we walked up to the Castle of Leira.

The castle was also a Palace for Queen Isabella. We were able to walk into one of the 1st cathedrals in Portugal, now it is in complete ruins but the outer walls and general shape were still visible.

Then we headed inside to the Palace were today they host many concerts and special events. When we went out on the patio outside of the main hall we were able to take in the sights below and Nuno pointed out where as a boyscout he use to scale the castle walls. Which is no longer allowed.

Once we saw all the sights we were on our way for the last 15 km of the ride. The so called tough part. The climb was 4 km long and consisted of 140 km elevation gain. At first we were all nervous because Nuno and Pedro had been talking it up. However, it wasn't that bad because it wove back and forth with hairpin turns up the mountain. We all successfully made it without any glitches or walking. Then we got to enjoy the last bit with a downhill all the way to the hotel.

After a beer, a quick shower, a pizza and another beer we were ready to see the Monastery that Batalha is known for. We walked through the interior.

Then outside to the imperfect Cathedral that was never finished. The outer structure was there but the roof was never completed. It really makes you wonder about the times and the funding of the Catholic Church.

After our sightseeing we needed to stop and do what we do best. Drink coffee...decaf for me for at least 3 more days. However, I had a brilliant idea that we should try a jumping picture and asked the waiter to take it for us. The best shot we got after 4 times was with Brita and no one else in the air. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.

Dinner tonight was fantastic. We went to a place called Vino for any Circumstance. It was like the steak houses of the states as far as atmosphere goes with wine lining the walls and dark wood furniture. But it stops there with similarities because then it is Portuguese fine dining with fish options and of course Cod. Dad went for the Duck while I tried Grilled Turbot with sun dried tomatoes and augratin potatoes. The best part was the wine, Cresta coming from the Douca region. It had been recognized in Wine Spectator earlier this year as one to try.

Day 6 ~ Thursday, April 9
Batalha to Fatima to Batalha 61 km

Wow!!! What a day. We rode a loop from Batlha through the beautiful Serra de Airee Candeeiros Natural Park, to Fatima then back to Batlha. It consisted of 3 intense climbs and a total of 61 km or 37.9 miles. We rode the 1st 40 km in 4 hours without very many breaks and completed all the uphills. The 1st in the long run was a joke in comparison to the 2nd and 3rd. Dad was not happy during them but he made it. While we were in Fatima the other riders asked his age and they were impressed with his accomplishments. As am I.

Fantastic Fatima. We were all so excited to reach Fatima. One for the significance it held and also because it meant we were going to take a break, see some sights and eat lunch. While Pedro and Nuno put together our picnic, Dad, Hanna, Brita and I went into Fatima.

It all began May 13, 1917 when 3 young shepherds reported seeing the Virgin Mary in a field at Cova de Iria, near the village. The Virgin promised to return on the 13th of each month for the next 5 months. Which she did, revealing 3 secrets, which over time have all come true. Thus making this the sight of many pilgrimages for the Roman Catholics. At times many of the Catholics go the last mile on their knees or circle the sight a number of times hoping for a miracle or healing.

Upon entering Fatima, we were very mature and took our 1st of what I hope will be a couple jumping pictures.

Then we went into the Basilica, and out to the actual sight were the Virgin 1st appeared. There were 4 women on their knees making the rounds at that time. Two of them were assisted by people standing making me assume they were there for the healing powers. Finally we went and lit candles for the family, before heading to see the new church built at the far end of the plaza.

Once we got our fill of religion, we went back to get our fill of food. Sandwiches, sardines, tuna, vegetables, and to wrap it all up the traditional Easter pastry that has two hard boiled eggs still in their shell at the center. Very tasty!

With full bellies we were back on our bikes for only 6 km before stopping for our coffee break and to go into a cave. I had never been in one before so t was an experience and Nuno has all the facts so we learned a lot.

When we exited the cave it was raining so we had to gear up for the last 15 km. Supposedly all downhill but that was not the truth. Our legs were shot and I really didn't think I would make it to the top each time. On the last climb Dad got a helping hand from Nuno letting him reach the top 1st. What a cheater. But we will give it to him this time. I think we were all happy when the downhill was done, we were off our bikes, and had a Cervaza in celebration of completing our longest ride of the week.

Day 7 ~ Good Friday, April 10
Batalha to Rio Maior 44 km

The last day. Nuno had been talking it up as a difficult ride and I was pretty positive it was going to be. My legs were exhausted and there was an accumulated climb of over 800 meters. Very close to what we did the day before . We were leaving Batahla heading for Rio Maior an easy 44 km or 27.2 miles away.

It all started with an 8 km gradual uphill for 100 meters followed by a 9 km climb from 100 m to 500 m. Nothing big in Nuno's eyes. however we all thought different and took it at our own speed of about 60%. Brita and I had a very nice conversation along that climb when the rain showers weren't pelting us or the wind trying to blow us off the road. But we made it.

That climb was followed by 2 more significant climbs that we kept the same game plan of 60% to make it manageable. On the last climb I was coming in last and Dad was right in front of me so I stood up and pushed through in front of him. Which Nuno captured on film. Then we had a good 2 km downhill into Rio Maior.

Rio Maior is known for its salt production fields. Unfortunately when we got there we found out they had just harvested the salt and re flooded the fields to start the process again. So we took a couple quick pictures before heading in for a huge chicken lunch before transferring back to Obidos for the evening.

Dinner tonight was at a restaurant outside the castle walls, known for their Cod baked in corn bread, garlic and olive oil. We all went with that dish and it was pretty good.

Day 8 ~ Saturday, April 11
Obidos to Lisbon to Sintra

Today was the end of our journey with Pedro and Nuno. We woke up bright and early in Obidos departing for the airport to drop Hanna and Brita off before heading to check into our hotel then to Sintra. Which Nuno and Pedro so kindly drove us all the way to Sintra allowing us to bypass the train for a least one leg of the journey.

We started off our visit at a pastry shop to have a traditional almond paste contraption. Not the best but my pie face finished it all off on our walk up to Pena Palace. The entire walk up was in lush green forests that looked as if they wer edirectly of fa movie set. Then we reached the entrance. The palace is a wash in pastels, reds, blues and yellows. Each color representing a section of the palace and the time it was built.

Looking out towards the water from the entrance you will see a soldier standing guard on the mountainside along with the walls left behind from the Moorish Castle. As wee wer walking in and I had taken maybe 5 pictures my cameras battery died. I have to say I am sick that I was not able to capture all that we saw today. It was probably the most beautiful part of Portugal yet.

After spending a couple hours wandering through the Pena Palace we caught a bus down to the square for lunch at the Paris Cafe. Next stop was the Quinta da Regaleira, an estate of a Brazilian mining magnate who had a very vivid imagination. This home had everything from the gardens that housed statues, waterfalls, grotto's, lookout towers, underground passage ways, and two wells. As Dad and I walked through the gardens each time we came across a tower or another structure we joked about the owners children tree house, or theater, or the ultimate game of hide and seek. The place was unbelievable and stretched for ever. The craziest part that underneath it all were underground passage ways that we walked through from waterfall to initiation well. And to think we hadn't even walked inside the house yet.

The house was a whole other story with huge rooms and multiple floors. Dad's favorite was the dining room that depicted various hunting scenes on the floors, walls, and ceilings. Mine was the circular staircase that ascended three flights to hte tower and the owners laboratory because he had an interest in chemistry. There was definitely a lot of money in Sintra when this home was built.

Our next stop was the Palacio Nacional de Sintra with it's two hge chimney's standing over a massive kitchen. It is the only surviving Royal Palace in Portugal dating from teh Middle Ages. It wasn't as grad as the other two but it was still impressive with each room named after the paintings on the ceiling. From teh Magpie room, to the Mermaid room to the brilliant Stag room were dining took place.

After all these Palaces Dad and I had enough and caught the train back to Lisbon for a short nap then dinner in the Barro Alto. After browsing many menus we choose Restaurante Tipico were we both had kebabs. The best part of the night however was the live entertainment that at times the owner of the restaurant joined in for a song.

Day 9 ~ Easter Sunday
April 12 ~ Lisbon

Today was the last day Dad and I had together and we had it all planned out. Wake up, leisurely breakfast, church thn sight seeing. That was before I slept till 8:45 with mass at 10:00. So we found another one at 11 and lived out our plan just with a much later start.

We found a church just a few blocks from our hotel called St. Antonie (we think). Outside it was rather plain but the inside was extremely ornate with gold covered detailing and every square inch painted with some biblical scene.

Mass was all in Portugeuse but we were able to also expericnce a babtism. Less of an ordeal then the states but still special with a professional photographer on hand. After mass we wandered back to our hotel to change and check our e-mail. It was a big day for me, Banana Republic was having a sale and I bought one or two things.

Then we were off to Mostero dos Jeronimos. We braved the metro and then the train into Belem. Walking through the square and past all the streetside cafes Dad and I realized that we were rather hungry but didn't want a long draged out meal so after much wandering we settled on McDonalds. So sad I know but neither of us could do fish again.

After our scrumptious meal we were truely on our way only to find out that everything was closed due to Easter. We did however get a brilliant picture from the outside before heading along the water to the Torre de Belam. Also closed.

The tower was built between 1514 and 1520 originally on an island to defend the port entrance. But it has served many jobs through the years as a prison, customs control point, and a lighthouse.

Then we continued down the water to Padrao dos Deseobrimentos a monument of the Discoveries to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator. It was built on the departure point for many voyages of discovery, inluding Vasco da Gama for India.

Now that we had seen the sights, it was time to take a break. One of Dad's and my favorite times of day. Pastries and coffee which we both have been waiting for 40 days for. We stopped for a real taste of Lisbon at Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, a bake-shop cafe that serves hot custard pasteries sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. They have been made at this location since 1837.

The place was an absolute mad house so Dad and I got ours to go and stopped at Starbucks to combine a little of the US with Portugal. It was a tasty treat.

With full bellies we grabbed a tram and headed back to Rossio the main square with the intention of tasting some Port. Those dreams were crushed when we realized that Institute wasn't open on Sundays. So instead we found a sidewalk cafe for a couple of beers and people watching while the sun went down.

It was a good end to a fantastic trip with Dad. I hope it is the beginning of many more adventures or just regular trips we get to take together.